I can justify working in the garden though and there’s always space where something died or make some where something should have. Yeah, plant a tree -- what a great idea! Or is it?
Yes, it is -- contrary to popular belief, Spring isn’t the only time to plant. In fact, professionals plant trees, shrubs and perennials from the earliest of Spring, through Summer and into Fall. Many deciduous shrubs and trees can be planted right up until the ground freezes without a problem.
Conifers and evergreens are best planted before the first of October, however. They need to get a few roots into the surrounding soil to absorb water that will be lost through their foliage during the winter months.
There are of course exceptions to every rule. A number of tree species, if harvested balled & burlapped (B&B), should be transplanted only in the Spring for one reason or another. The very same species however can be safely transplanted throughout the season if they have been container-grown instead of field grown and harvested B&B. Some familiar trees that fit into this category are: red maple (Acer rubrum), birch (Betula sp.), eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), hawthorn (Crataegus sp.), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), magnolia (Magnolia sp.), and nut trees like oak (Quercus sp.) and hickory (Carya sp.). If you’re not sure whether a tree belongs with this group, either buy container grown plants or ask a knowledgeable salesperson before buying a B&B plant.
So, painting is out and planting is in -- now what? First, select a tree species that is appropriate for your site. Consider the space available for the tree to grow, the needs of the tree and your needs from the tree.
You need to know how big your tree will grow when mature. Hacking back a tree with a machete each year is not a good thing -- it may get you out of doing constructive, boring projects like painting, but isn’t good for the tree’s health. Pay attention to the ultimate width as well as height and choose appropriately.
It is very important to meet the cultural needs of the plant such as: cold hardiness; exposure -- sun vs. shade, sheltered or windy; soil -- wet-tolerant, evenly moist or drought-tolerant, cool vs. hot, acid vs. alkaline; and pollution tolerance -- most often salt tolerance when planting near a street. Also, don’t forget about insect and disease resistance -- spraying for these problems is often avoidable with a little foresight.
Next, make your final pick from the list of species or cultivars (cultivated varieties) that matched the above mentioned criteria. Choose a tree with aesthetic characteristics that are important to you, such as colorful flowers, showy fruit for ornament or wildlife, interesting winter bark, stunning fall color, etc.
When you finally make a decision and go to buy a plant, select a healthy specimen. Avoid trees with marred trunks or major branches, loose root balls with wobbly trunks or poor foliage.
When transporting the plant home from the garden center or nursery treat it gingerly. Lift it by the ball or pot, not the tree trunk and protect the trunk with a piece of cloth or foam. Remember to protect the foliage from damaging winds by covering it with a tarp before driving home.
Now it’s time to prepare the site for planting. Decide how deep to dig the hole by measuring from the root collar (the point where the trunk ends and the roots begin) to the bottom of the root ball. Don’t be afraid to scrape off a few inches of soil on the top of the ball to reveal the root collar, it is more often buried than not. With this figure in hand, dig the hole a couple of inches shallower than your measurement to allow for settling after planting. It is better to plant too high than too low.
Dig the hole 3-5 times as wide as the root ball and roughen up the glazed sides of the hole with a shovel or cultivator. This loose soil will allow new roots unrestricted growth.
Now it’s time to plant! Gently remove the tree from the pot and set it into the hole at the prescribed depth. If planting a B&B, set it into the hole and remove as much twine and burlap as possible without damaging the ball. With both types, be sure to cleanly cut any jagged root ends and remove any circling roots that could later girdle the trunk.
Gently straighten the tree by adjusting the ball (without pulling on the trunk) and backfill the hole with the same soil you dug from the hole. Research has proven that it is best not to add compost or peat moss to the backfill soil. Gently firm the soil around the ball and water thoroughly to eliminate any air pockets.
Mulching the zone from the trunk to the edge of the branches is essential -- 3-4” of wood chips is perfect. It preserves precious soil moisture around the fragile root system and protects the trunk from mower damage. Be sure not to place chips directly on the trunk since it encourages disease organisms.
Stake the tree only if necessary and only prune out broken and dead branches. Structural pruning and fertilizer application should wait until next Spring. Water when the leaves begin to wilt -- how often depends upon the weather and your soil type.
I guarantee you that planting a tree is a heck of a lot more satisfying than painting a house or garage. The paint will last five or so years before it begins peeling again, but a tree will only get better with age. It ‘ll also create more diversions from real work I should be doing. I’ll have to water it for couple of years, mulch it, prune it...